Doxa and Hodinkee have teamed up for the first time on a smaller version of one of the brand’s most elusive military-inspired watches. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide, the SUB Army 200T For Hodinkee costs $2,000 and is available exclusively through Watches of Switzerland.
The design looks back to the original Doxa Army developed with the Swiss Army in 1969. Its tan dial, checkerboard surround and black-coated case made it different from the bright orange dive watches for which Doxa was already known.
For this edition, the Army design has been adapted to the more compact SUB 200T case for the first time. The 39mm stainless steel case is around 10% smaller than the vintage model, making it easier to wear as an everyday watch.
Its raw steel finish also references surviving examples of the original Army, whose experimental black coatings gradually wore away during use. Hodinkee has softened the remaining military details with a textured sand-coloured dial and faded grey accents.
A checkerboard track surrounds the dial, while the date wheel has been matched to the same muted grey shade. Doxa’s oversized orange hands add a brighter contrast and make the time easier to read.
Faded grey also appears on the aluminium countdown bezel, where the minute markings reveal the brushed metal underneath. Old Radium Super-LumiNova fills the engraved numerals and orientation triangle to give the watch a warmer, aged appearance.
Unlike many Doxa dive watches, the bezel uses a standard 60-minute scale instead of the brand’s recognisable no-decompression markings. The slimmer case also leaves out the helium escape valve, but it still offers 200 metres of water resistance.
The watch is powered by a Doxa-decorated Swiss automatic movement running at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with a 38-hour power reserve. By pairing the rare Army design with a smaller case, this limited edition offers a more wearable take on one of Doxa’s most distinctive dive watches.